Note: Chef Drew has moved on, so check out the new chef at Pico.
For most of us, winter means time for soup! And the ultimate soup is consommé: a super clear, concentrated broth usually served with a few hearty ingredients like meat, pasta or vegetable garnishes. A soup so clear and simple can taste so bold with amazing concentration of flavor. Of course, there are many steps to make this perfectly clear, traditional French soup, so we’re lucky Chef Drew Terp at Pico Los Alamos can show us how to make it.
Chef Drew has cooked in and helmed at Michelin-Starred kitchens from Napa and New York City to Spain, Las Vegas and Washington D.C. Now he is spreading the love in Los Alamos, with monthly Chef’s classes at Pico.
“I want to help cultivate passion in people that want to learn to cook better. It’s such an opportunity to be able to go into a professional kitchen to learn, instead of online or with video,” says Chef Drew. He remembers folks calling in with cooking questions to the butcher shop where he worked in Alabama, and he loved helping each one.
This winter, get In the Kitchen with Chef Drew as he takes on broths, sauces and consommés. Locals, tourists, farmers, cooks and novices can learn how to make flavorful, healthy broths from scratch and turn them into delicious soups, sauces and more, right from the source himself. Check the schedule at LosAlamosGeneralStore.com.
To make duck broth consommé, ask your butcher for duck bones (or beef knee or leg bones), then heavily roast or grill them (about 2 whole ducks or the equivalent) until brown. Large-dice onions, carrots, fennel and garlic and brown them in grape seed oil in a large stockpot. Deglaze with dry white wine (about 1 pint), scraping bottom of pan and reducing the mixture by half. Remove from heat, add roasted bones and cover with cold water, toasted peppercorns and bay leaf, then simmer on low for 4-6 hours. Strain with cheesecloth and refrigerate overnight.
In the morning, grind carrots and onions with 2 egg whites, put in bottom of stockpot and gently cover with the cold broth. Cook over very low heat 20-40 minutes, and do not stir! The mixture at the bottom will create a raft and begin to float to the top, clarifying the broth on the way. Once it floats, remove and let rest at room temperature until rats sinks a little, about 30 minutes. Pour through cheesecloth and add salt, pepper and soy sauce. Pour heated consommé over cooked pasta, grilled meat, blanched squash and green onion in a warm bowl and serve.