Wine Country Dining Archives - Cali Coast Wine Country

Fall’s Don’t-Miss-Dish in Edible Santa Barbara magazine

A cozy spot that feels like home is exactly what Bell’s owners, Daisy and Greg Ryan, wanted in their first restaurant. And for Chef Daisy, who is from the Santa Ynez Valley, it was also about family, community, and coming home. It was great timing, as the building that used to house Bell Street Farm in Los Alamos was up for sale, with a kitchen, dining room and back patio that was perfect for a French bistro.

Why French cuisine in this new home? Looking around the valley, Chef Daisy realized there were plenty of Italian restaurants—her favorite food to eat—but not many French ones. Also, French cooking is the basis of all culinary training, as well as that of Per Se, the Michelin-starred Thomas Keller restaurant where she worked, and met her husband Greg, in New York.

The duo’s vision was an all-day cafe where you can hang out and read or work on your laptop. A place where you come back again and again…you know the other patrons. This means the food isn’t fancy, but simple and delicious, and it goes well with a good glass of wine.

“This area is a lot like wine regions in France, where the farmers and winemakers drive from their fields and wineries into small local towns to have a simple, delicious lunch,” said Chef Daisy. “It’s the food of the people: local, familiar and interesting.” This means fresh soups, salads, and sandwiches (the egg salad is her favorite) plus classic French dishes like escargot, steak tartare and moules frites (mussels with fries).

Sourcing locally is a must for the Ryans. Chef Daisy estimates that 95% of everything they cook is from Santa Barbara County. The mussels come from Hope Ranch in Santa Barbara, which means they have a 50-minute ride from the sea to the restaurant. For Chef Daisy, seafood is always better when it’s fresh, not frozen or transported long distances, and Hope Ranch mussels are small and flavorful. She says mussels are great for celebrating, as they are always impressive, and also pretty easy to make.

The first step is sourcing good mussels. If you can go to a fish market, that is the best, but high-end organic grocery stores also have great shellfish. Look for ones that are closed tight and smell fresh, like the ocean. You’ll need 1 pound of mussels per person. Clean them by pulling the beard away and scrub with a hard brush. For two servings, set a large sauce pan on medium heat and bring to a simmer: 1 cup dry white wine, 3/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 clove of garlic, 4 tablespoons butter, small pinch of saffron, 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper. Add 2 lbs of cold, live mussels, increase heat and cover tightly with lid. Steam for 5 minutes, just until all mussels are open. Remove from heat and discard any mussels that didn’t open. Divide mussels and broth into 2 bowls, top with freshly chopped parsley and serve immediately with double-fried potatoes, crusty bread or your favorite potato chips

Winter |

For most of us, winter means time for soup! And the ultimate soup is consommé: a super clear, concentrated broth usually served with a few hearty ingredients like meat, pasta or vegetable garnishes. A soup so clear and simple can taste so bold with amazing concentration of flavor. Of course, there are many steps to make this perfectly clear, traditional French soup, so we’re lucky Chef Drew Terp at Pico Los Alamos can show us how to make it.

Chef Drew has cooked in and helmed at Michelin-Starred kitchens from Napa and New York City to Spain, Las Vegas and Washington D.C. Now he is spreading the love in Los Alamos, with monthly Chef’s classes at Pico.

“I want to help cultivate passion in people that want to learn to cook better. It’s such an opportunity to be able to go into a professional kitchen to learn, instead of online or with video,” says Chef Drew. He remembers folks calling in with cooking questions to the butcher shop where he worked in Alabama, and he loved helping each one.

This winter, get In the Kitchen with Chef Drew as he takes on broths, sauces and consommés. Locals, tourists, farmers, cooks and novices can learn how to make flavorful, healthy broths from scratch and turn them into delicious soups, sauces and more, right from the source himself. Check the schedule at LosAlamosGeneralStore.com.

To make duck broth consommé, ask your butcher for duck bones (or beef knee or leg bones), then heavily roast or grill them (about 2 whole ducks or the equivalent) until brown. Large-dice onions, carrots, fennel and garlic and brown them in grape seed oil in a large stockpot. Deglaze with dry white wine (about 1 pint), scraping bottom of pan and reducing the mixture by half. Remove from heat, add roasted bones and cover with cold water, toasted peppercorns and bay leaf, then simmer on low for 4-6 hours. Strain with cheesecloth and refrigerate overnight.

In the morning, grind carrots and onions with 2 egg whites, put in bottom of stockpot and gently cover with the cold broth. Cook over very low heat 20-40 minutes, and do not stir! The mixture at the bottom will create a raft and begin to float to the top, clarifying the broth on the way. Once it floats, remove and let rest at room temperature until rats sinks a little, about 30 minutes. Pour through cheesecloth and add salt, pepper and soy sauce. Pour heated consommé over cooked pasta, grilled meat, blanched squash and green onion in a warm bowl and serve.